
14.11.2011 / World Bulletin
Mediterranean California
Towering cliffs, fog-banked canyon, thick forests, roaring surf and pristine beaches. These are the main landscape features of Big Sur, in Central California.
A 93 mile-long coastline – from San Simeon to Carmel-by-the-Sea – where you will easily forget you’re in the US, thanks to the Mediterranean vegetation and the total absence of hotel chains, supermarkets and fast foods.
Here stod the wood cabin where writer Jack Kerouac took refuge from his sudden fame in the Sixties – and where he wrote one of his most intense and obscure novels, Big Sur.
Ever since then, these places have been a favourite retreat for writers and artists looking for peace and inspiration – or maybe just eager to hear the sound of a whispering sea which, according to Kerouac’s prose, seems to speak in rhythmic verses, as if composing a jazz symphony.
The charm of Big Sur reveals itself in every season – in the bright spring sun or in the thick autumn fog. But don’t expect an average holiday with mass hospitality.
Here you can camp, take lodging in a wood cabin (just like Kerouac!) or sleep in a private motel. Most of the beaches belong to protected areas -Â you can either contemplate them or take a walk along the coast, but bathing is mostly out of question. These chilly and rough waters are more suitable for sea lions than for humans.
In other words, Big Sur is a state of mind rather than a holiday resort. The best way to discover it is driving along the narrow and winding coastal highway or hiking in one of the area’s nine natural parks.
NOT TO BE MISSED
Henry Miller Library: a pretty unique and unusual cultural resource center in the woods. Stop by for a peek while driving along the coastal highway.
One fast move or I’m gone: a recent documovie inspired by Jack Kerouac’s Big Sur. Just perfect to get in the right mood for your trip.
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