18.05.2011 / World Bulletin
Out & around: SoPi
Once home to Georges Sand, Chopin, and Renoir, SoPi – the abbreviation of South Pigalle – used to be the neighborhood of the Moulin Rouge and the night clubs. Today, it is turning into one of the most interesting and vibrant areas of the French capital. In other words, a bohemian alternative to the more popular Marais.
Despite laying in the middle of Paris, South Pigalle stays authentic. Particularly on Sunday morning, when the long Rue des Martyrs is closed to cars and hosts food stands and oustide café tables, turning into what seems like a country village.
SoPi’s population is an unusual mix of old and new inhabitants – from the so-called bobos (bourgeois bohémiens) to the immigrants, from the families to old people and young artists – which makes this neighborhood one of a kind.
Its streets are crowded with small shops, pâtisseries, bistrots, museums, ateliers and small theaters. Here are a few things you can’t miss.
RESTAURANTS & CO.
Le Carmen
Inside composer Bizet’s grandiose former residence, this popular cocktail bar sports a decadent boudoir style, with painted ceilings, stucco cherubs and neo-classical columns.
Pousse-Pousse
Born as a juice bar and hub for vegetarian food and cookware, it is now a lunch spot serving salads, soups, etc. definitely a must-book place.
Da Carmine
61, rue des Martyrs
An authentic Neapolitan pizzeria. Small, informal and constantly crowded.
Le Mansart
1, rue Mansart
Down the street from the more popular Sans Souci and just in front of Le Carmen, this new bistrot has a huge patio and is always crowded at night.
CONFECTIONER’S SHOPS
Natier
1, rue Henry Monnier
AÂ cozy little chocolate shop with a good selection of teas.
Arnaud Delmontel
Confectioner’s shop, bakery and traiteur particularly known for its stuffed baguettes (there’s alway a line at lunch time). The pastries are very appreciated as well.
Rose Bakery
46 Rue des Martyrs
A Bakery, café, and food shop serving a British-style brunch with scones, pancakes, cakes and vegetable tarts. It also sells some hard-to-find stuff from the UK.
SHOPPING
Les Cakes de Bertrand
Born as a tea salon, this shop sells the creations of Didier Bertrand – handbags, purses, wallets and other objects— made with vintage French graphics.
’Oeuf
A concept store selling clothes, accessories and vintage design objects.
Et Puis C’est Tout
72, Rue des Martyrs
An antiques shop specializing in crockery and glassware.
L’Oeil du Silence
91, Rue des Martyrs
A bookshop boasting a collection of first editions as well as CDs and vintage record albums.
Librairie des Abbesses
30, Rue Yvonne Le Tac
A famous neighborhood bookshop lined with floor-to-ceiling bookcases.
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
L’Oeil du Huit
A contemporary art gallery promoting the emerging art and culture and hosting exhibitions, concerts, workshops and contests.
Musée Gustave Moreau
A museum entirely devoted to the precursor of French Symbolism, arranged inside his own home and displaying over 1,400 works of the artist.
Musée de la Vie Romantique
Once the home of painter Ary Scheffer, whose parties used to be attended by painters, writers and musicians (including Chopin and George Sand), this literary museum preserves souvenirs, objects and documents from the Romantic era.
