Like all the Highlands of Iceland roads, Kjölur can only be reached in the summer. This is usually from late May to September and requires a 4x4. In fact, being on a path of volcanic sand slows down the travel speed, even when atmospheric conditions are ideal. But there are many reasons that take the experience beyond the joy of extreme driving. First off, one really soaks up being “out there and away from everything”—right in the middle of one of Europe's wildest places.
The route winds between lakes and the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers. Right after that, it cuts through Hveravellir, a gurgling, bubbling geothermal area known for hot springs (up to 100 °C) and outdoor thermal pools that demand a dip. Despite being far from (almost) everything, you can still find lodges to stay in with many excursions on foot.
More than a few daredevils choose mountain biking over the 4x4. This takes about three days. One, however, needs good legs and an equal dose of courage. Holes are inevitable, and it is impossible to find drinking water outside of a few points.