The first italian Master of Wine

Being the first, blazing a new trail, is by definition a challenge. Reaching a difficult goal is an immense satisfaction. Gabriele Gorelli, however, knows that the milestone he has reached is not a finishing point, but the starting line of an equally challenging journey: to raise awareness of Italian winemaking. In fact, Gorelli is the first Italian to achieve the title of Master of Wine (MW), the most prestigious in the industry. Awarded by the Institute of Masters of Wine, this certification requires a long and selective journey lasting years, during which candidates must demonstrate in-depth knowledge of winemaking, tasting, and the wine trade, in addition to completing an original research project. The title represents a seal of excellence, awarded to professionals who are committed to elevating the standard of the wine industry worldwide.

For many, the exam is a nightmare. Not for Gorelli, who explains: "It's a six-year journey, so it's very complex to summarize. When I discovered this institute, I was immediately drawn to the sense of exclusivity that captivated me. Just to say, with the title, your name changes, and you can add those two letters, MW, which you wear like a suit. From the very beginning, I understood the level of selection: out of 40, we were down to 6 from the first weekend. Then the residential seminar: 40 participants from 20 nations. There, I realized that our Italy-centric mindset prevents us from understanding that we are infinitesimal compared to the vastness of the world."

And the most beautiful part of the journey? Gorelli has no doubts: "Life and sharing, like on a campus. I can't share my experience without mentioning the other two Italian MWs, Andrea Lonardi from Valpolicella and Pietro Russo, a Sicilian from Marsala. We didn't even know each other, and now we are like brothers. I'll say more: we have been instrumental in each other's successes. When we talk about creating a system, this is exactly what we mean, and I hope to be an example for the new students.

But every journey has its challenges, and for Gorelli, the most demanding moment was stage 3, the research project: "The first part was like an ultramarathon: four days for the tasting and theoretical parts. But stage 3 was different. We were in the midst of the lockdown, and there was no longer any sense of camaraderie. The loneliness and uncertainty were tangible."

The research project he undertook, on the precipitation of Quercetin in bottles, represented an important contribution to the industry. "Quercetin is a problem for many producers, especially with Sangiovese-based wines, but also with other varieties such as Pinot Noir in New Zealand and Oregon, or Zinfandel in California. I discovered how powerful it can be to contribute with useful research. Today, I'm known as 'the Quercetin guy', and that opens many doors."

The wait for the verdict, however, was nerve-racking: "Three months spent waiting for the crucial phone call, which could have one of three outcomes: yes, you're an MW; almost, but the paper needs revisions; no, start over. It went well, and the emotion was incredible. Moreover, we were in the midst of the third wave of COVID-19, and there was a great need to feel united. The announcement of the first Italian Master of Wine had an incredible impact on the country's wine trade".

The journey not only transformed Gorelli as a wine expert but also as a person: "The method, the open-mindedness, that approach which is generally not part of the Italian education system. Asking myself why things happen has opened me up to understanding and personal growth."

When asked about the most surprising aspect of the process, he replies, "Realizing I am a citizen of the world. When confronted with such diverse skills and backgrounds, one must learn to listen. It's the most beautiful thing."

And how does the relationship with other wine experts change once you become an MW? Gorelli reflects: "In Italy, I still have to explain what it means to be an MW, while abroad, I was already 'the one from Italy'." I could have been more exclusive, but by nature, I prefer to be a unifying figure. I chose to stay true to my principles: not to be dependent, but always self-sufficient.

Being the first Italian MW also entails a great responsibility. Gorelli sees himself as an ambassador of Italian identity, not just wine: "Cultural depth, great flexibility, and style. This is the Italian character that I bring to the world."

And despite having tasted thousands of wines, the excitement of a glass has not faded: "Since I'm no longer a student and don't have the need to catalog and store data, I can relax and allow myself to be amazed. And I experience this often, even with less prestigious wines. Recently, I have really enjoyed the Fiano and Greco from Irpinia: wines that are unmistakably Italian. Then there are the wines of the heart, like Brunello di Montalcino, which is undergoing an evolution in the producers' awareness, as they know how to interpret the vintage in a personal way."

Looking ahead, Gorelli believes Italy has immense potential: "We must close the gap with France, but in an Italian way, by embracing our fragmentation and celebrating diversity. There's so much room for authentic storytelling, and that's what I want to do. Live in Italy, but have a global perspective."

With this perspective, he curated the wine list for Slowear 18: "Boutique wines, characterized by a strong personality and a high level of complexity, with intriguing brands, defined by variety or denomination. Within all of this, I sought a unique interpretation, in line with the Slowear brand. Like Podere Sapaio from Bolgheri, with that crown on the label, a tribute to the work of the winemakers in the vineyard and winery, striving to break free from the nobility that surrounds it. In essence, it's about standing apart from the trends, yet always in a way that's distinctive and stylish.