No need to try to be too original: in Budapest, goulash must absolutely be eaten or sipped as soup. But there is more to the cuisine than this spiced emblem of Hungarian tradition: the strong Jewish influences can also be tasted and there are many kosher-inspired restaurants that are well worth trying.
by Marco Muggiano
=
Borkonyha
Sas utca 3
borkonyha@borkonyha.hu
A Michelin-starred restaurant that has also won several awards for its wine list, which is not endless but superbly selected. In the kitchen is Ákos Sárközi, whose main objective "is to show guests the beauty of food." For this reason, his dishes, which are far from cheap, also satiate the eyes. These include a trio of lamb, shallot and egg tartare that looks like a painter's palette. Vegetarians won't find many options here.
=
Mazel Tov
Akácfa utca 47
reservation@mazeltov.hu
The Jewish tradition in Budapest is also handed down at the table. This is the case in this unique bistro in a courtyard enclosed by a transparent roof, which gives the feeling of being outside even on rainy days. On the menu, the best of Israeli Fusion Kitchen, with strong Maghrebi references: hummus, falafel, pastrami, shawarma, merguez, shakshuka. Outstanding cocktail menu. Booking is a must.
=
Hungarikum Bisztró
Steindl Imre utca 13
info@hungarikumbisztro.hu
Goulash soup, duck leg with onion-flavored potatoes and braised cabbage, and revisited pies: "We prepare them the way grandma used to make them, then mum, and now it's our turn. We want to preserve the flavors of our childhood." At the cost of serving spiced or savory dishes that not everyone is used to anymore. Red and white checkered tablecloths, a homey atmosphere and great difficulty in finding a free table without a booking.
=
Borbíróság
Csarnok tér 5
info@borbirosag.com
An original bistro with a wine cellar that is ideal for trying Hungarian wines: a hundred or so labels accompany a constantly updated menu with dishes prepared with fresh ingredients from the neighborhood's large covered market.
Among the highlights is the duck, also in a hamburger version.
=
Köleves
Kazinczy utca 41
reservation@koleves.com
Restaurant in the Jewish Quarter with an ecological philosophy. No pork is cooked, nor are preservatives used. Meat and vegetables come from farmers within a radius of 60 kilometers at the most. The portions are plentiful and the atmosphere is perfectly in line with the neighborhood: inclusive and welcoming. Excellent wine list, with a focus on Hungarian wines with a high price-quality ratio. If you arrive without a booking, it is not unusual to have to wait, but no matter, you can use the time profitably with an aperitif at the Köleves Kert, an open-air ruin bar with a wooden kiosk, colorful tables and leafy trees and, above all, beers and drinks at exceptionally low prices.