Mirrored rooms, marble columns, brocades, candelabras, Venetian chandeliers and a fascinating history with both lofty peaks and steep declines, it is the ideal place to immerse yourself in an Austro-Hungarian atmosphere that is perhaps a little too touristy, but remains a must-see.
by Marco Muggiano
"The New York Café has lived through many eras, political systems and historical turning points. Still, it has always been reborn, sparkling and occupied by those who longed for its comforts: artists, members of the nobility and commoners alike": this is how he presents what calls itself "The most beautiful café in the world."
Its history is certainly fascinating, at least as much as the Renaissance atmosphere that still amazes patrons (a high percentage of whom are tourists, as it is a place not to be missed).
It was 1894, and the New York Life Insurance Company wanted to open its headquarters in Budapest, a city that called for a luxurious and imposing location. The New York Palace, which houses an extraordinary café on its lower floors, thus came into being. Between Renaissance, Baroque and Art Nouveau styles, the gallery is decorated with frescoes by famous Hungarian artists and then mirrored rooms, marble columns, draperies, brocades, candelabras, Venetian chandeliers, bronze statues and lanterns. Thematic salons: the billiard room and the ladies' room.
Soon it became popular with the Magyar intelligentsia: writers and editors all converged here because the most influential newspapers were edited upstairs in the gallery. Actors, film directors and musicians meet there still today. A sandwich dedicated to notoriously penniless writers was invented, called the "Piccolo letterario": simply salami and cheese.
With the Second World War, however, it fell into disgrace, even becoming a cattle shed. In 1954, an attempt was made to relaunch it under the name Ristorante Hungária, but it was not until the beginning of this century that it was restored to its original splendor. Gruppo Boscolo purchased the entire New York Café building to turn it into a five-star hotel: in partnership with the Hungarian Cultural Heritage Authority, the café was completely renovated and with it the Nyugat restaurant and bar.
But what about the most important thing for a café-restaurant - the menu? Paradoxically, it is not for one's palate that one chooses the New York, even though its dishes recall the multicultural cuisine of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy in taste and service: goulash, Fishermen Soup, Chicken Leg Paprikash-style, Wiener Schnitzel and Grilled Foie Gras are served along with famous desserts such as Dobos, Sacher and Eszterházy cake. Perhaps the most recommended time to sit at its tablecloth tables is the delicious breakfast. But a booking is a must, otherwise you risk a long and often vain wait at the reception desk.