Orange wines: fleeting trend or genuine treasure?

Orange wines are the latest phenomenon on the wine scene, and many wonder if they are just a passing fad or indicate a return to an authentic and forgotten treasure. With its orange, amber, or deep yellow coloring, this wine is actually the result of rediscovered ancient winemaking methods. Its origins date back to Georgia over 3,000 years ago, where wine was made by leaving the must of white grapes in contact with skins and stalks inside terracotta amphorae (known as kvevri). Recognized in 2013 by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, this practice is still in use today and has inspired winemakers around the world.

In the 1990s, the production of orange wines began to counteract that of the more neutral and nuance-free white wines that were the result of exasperatingly technical winemaking. This movement has played a major role in Italy, thanks to producers such as Joško Gravner and Stanko Radikon, who have brought traditional methods back into vogue. During maceration, the skins of white grapes are left in contact with the must for a period that can vary from a few hours to several months, affecting the wine's color, aroma, and structure. This technique, if performed with a certain amount of sensibility, can give the wine a unique and unmistakable character.

However, the revival of orange wines has sparked a debate in the wine world: fleeting trend or genuine treasure? At first, the maceration of white grapes was viewed with suspicion by more traditional oenologists. Over time, however, consumer curiosity and the success of these wines on the market have changed perceptions, so much so that today we find orange wines produced in many regions of Italy, from Piedmont to Pantelleria. Some of these wines are amazingly complex and alluring, with multifaceted aromatic profiles and a richly energetic palatal structure full of zest. Others, however, turn out to be muddled or even unpleasant, with flaws that are the result of poorly handled maceration.

Maceration, therefore, cannot simply be a fashionable choice. It requires knowledge, sensibility, and a tailored approach that allows the wine to express the character of its vines and the territory. If it is used as an end unto itself, it runs the risk of producing standardized wines in which neither the variety of the grapes nor the specificity of the area are discernible. The best orange wines are those that, through maceration, manage to tell stories of territories, vines, and the people who created them.

In short, it does not seem to be a mere passing fad. They are ancient techniques that, if handled with care and skill, can yield authentically appealing wines. Their rediscovery symbolizes a return to tradition, but their true strength lies in each producer's ability to interpret this technique in a uniquely personal way that respects their terroir.